For today's podcast episode, I'm visiting the Fattoria e Villa di Rignana winery in Panzano in Chianti and Cosimo Gericke, the owner, is sitting by my side.

The history of the Fattoria e Villa di Rignana

The Fattoria e Villa di Rignana has been owned by Cosimo Gericke's family since 1965. His father's family originally came from Germany and emigrated to Italy in the 1920s. Cosimo's grandfather ran the German Academy in Rome at the time. However, his father always wanted to live in the countryside and buy a vineyard. In the mid-1960s, the old system in Tuscan agriculture was changed, where the workers received 50% and the owners 50% (so the yield was shared). At that time, the workers moved to Florence to settle there - the famous rural exodus. At this time, Cosimo's father bought the Rignana vineyard and laid a wonderful foundation stone.

Cosimo took over responsibility for Rignana in 1999. He is the father of two grown-up children and a passionate hunter. Although Cosimo grew up in Italy, he speaks perfect German thanks to his German ancestors. Of course, the German guests who visit the winery today also benefit from this. He has also passed on the German language to his children in order to bring them closer to their roots.

The Sangiovese grape

During our conversation, Cosimo and I toast with a glass of Sangiovese Bianco - a Sangiovese from the old vineyard. It was harvested a little earlier so that there wasn't too much alcohol in the wine. This preserves the beautiful aroma of the grape, just like a white wine, even though it is made from red grapes. The Sangiovese is therefore harvested earlier, then destemmed directly and pressed immediately, but very, very lightly, so that it does not take on any skin coloration. This gives it a white color, even though the grape is actually red. I love the floral scent of white Sangiovese - otherwise Sangiovese is sometimes a little restrained in scent, but it always comes into its own in white wine.

The power place Rignana

Rignana is an absolute power place for me. It is located at the north-western tip of Panzano. On the way to Rignana, you drive along a gravel road. Once you arrive in Rignana, a valley opens up with a wonderful view. I always feel a very special energy here that is difficult to describe. A mixture of peace and life that simply does you good. Although Cosimo has lived and worked here for so many years, he still feels this special strength and energy. No matter whether he is in a bad mood or in pain - after a few meters in his vineyards, everything negative is blown away. It was probably also this special energy that his father felt in 1965 when he bought the winery. And the winery's guests also appreciate this special place where you can simply take a deep breath.

But Rignana is not just a winery - there is also an agriturismo and a small chapel attached, which is perfect for weddings. A dream place to get married. Rignana also includes the Cantinetta di Rignana, a restaurant where you can enjoy typical Tuscan cuisine and where you can have fun, laugh and enjoy the day.

The wines of the Fattoria di Rignana

Rignana has a total area of approx. 120 hectares. Of this, around 14 hectares are vineyards and there are around 1,000 olive trees. The rest is woodland and fields. The Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grape varieties are cultivated on the 14 hectares of vineyards. The proportion of Sangiovese on Rignana is around 70-75%.

Rignana's wines and olive oil are certified organic. The range includes three wines with the designation Chianti Classico: the Chianti Classico "Annata", as they say in Italy. Although "Annata" is not written on any of the bottles, it is an expression of the current basis of Chianti Classico - a wonderfully fruity Chianti Classico. There is also the Chianti Classico Riserva, the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione and the "Il Riccio". Il Riccio was initially a single-varietal Merlot, later some Cabernet Franc was added and since the 2016 vintage, this wine has been a single-varietal Cabernet Franc.

The range is rounded off by three summer wines: a pure Canaiolo in the classic straw bottle, a fruity, fresh Rosato and last but not least the Sangiovese Bianco, i.e. the white Sangiovese, not forgetting the excellent olive oil from Rignana.

The hedgehog as Rignana's trademark

Incidentally, a hedgehog is depicted on every bottle of Rignana wine. And as you move around the winery, you will come across hedgehog figures, pictures and paintings time and again. This symbol goes back to the Ricci family, who owned Rignana for a long time.

In the 18th century, there was a saint, "Santa Caterina di Ricci", and "Scipione the Ricci", who was Bishop of Pistoia from 1780 to 1791. At the time, Scipione tried to reform the church together with the Austrian Leopold II of Habsburg, who ruled Tuscany. The church did not like this at all, and so Scipione was sent to Rignana to the Ricci family estate, where he spent his last years and was later buried in the chapel.

And because "Ricci" is the plural of "Riccio" (the hedgehog), Cosimo's family made the hedgehog the symbol of Rignana. So if there is a hedgehog on the bottle, we can be sure that it contains Rignana.

The Sangiovese - the "big player" on Rignana

Sangiovese is a very exciting grape variety and not easy to produce. It needs a certain soil, a certain location and you can neither produce too much nor too little. All in all, it is a rather delicate grape.

After fermentation, the acidity of Sangiovese is very high and intense, but during biological fermentation the acidity slowly reduces. Sangiovese therefore simply needs a lot of time - both as a plant and later in the cellar and in the bottle. Rignana's 100% Sangiovese must remain in wood for at least 30 months. But if you open a bottle after 10-15 years and the wine still has "so much to tell", as I like to say, then you will be rewarded for all the effort you have put into the grape.

Cabernet Franc has certain similarities with Sangiovese. It matures at around the same time and, as an aromatic Cabernet, goes very well with Sangiovese. It is therefore a wonderful combination of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. You don't often find a single-varietal Cabernet Franc in Chianti - but Cosimo likes to try out new things. Years ago, he visited the vineyards of Bolgheri with a friend, where the grapes ripen a little faster. It was there that Cosimo tasted Cabarnet Franc for the first time and liked it. He then decided to plant a first hectare of this grape variety in Rignana. In contrast to Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc needs a relatively long time to drive its roots deep into the soil. Only then can it fully develop.

The colorful diversity of Sangiovese

Sangiovese is and remains Cosimo's great love. This is also reflected in the fact that he produces three Sangiovese wines, albeit in different colors. A red wine, a rosé and a white wine. Cosimo's father had already started producing rosato. To make his red wine a little more concentrated, the grapes are destemmed and filled into tanks. After around 24 hours, the fresh juice is extracted from the mash. This method is called "saignee", the word comes from the French and means "to bleed".

Today, the Rosato is pressed and vinified immediately after the harvest at very low temperatures in order to preserve its beautiful freshness. It ferments very slowly at around 15 degrees and is not given any additional yeast. The white Bianco and Rosato are harvested earlier than usual for red wine and almost simultaneously. The best grapes are used for the red wines. The Rosato and the white wine are 100% Sangiovese - the Riserva is made with 10% Cabernet Franc and the aforementioned Canaiolo with 15% in Chianti Classico.