#SehnsuchtChiantiClassico: my virtual aperitif with Vicky Schmitt-Vitali from the Le Fonti winery

Guido and Vicky from the Le Fonti Panzano winery

Today is part two of my new blog series #LongingChiantiClassicoin which I will be looking at how the people in my beloved Chianti are faring in these difficult times over the coming days and weeks. This time, Vicky Schmitt-Vitali tells us about the current situation at her winery Fattoria Le Fonti, how her husband Guido and the children are doing, how the family will be celebrating Easter and what thoughts are accompanying them. My thoughts are with all my friends in Chianti right now around Easter!

Fattoria Le Fonti - in the heart of Panzano in Chianti

The entrance to Fattoria Le Fonti is just below the village church in the historic center of Panzano. The winery has an area of 15 hectares: 8.5 hectares of vineyards in the Alta Valle della Greve, i.e. in the valley of the river Greve, which lies on the rear side of the Conca d'Oro - the rest are olive trees. All the vines that grow and thrive in the vineyards of Le Fonti today were newly planted by Vicky's father Konrad in 1994.

Today, Vicky and her husband Guido live and work at Le Fonti with their three children - even though neither of them had any ambitions to become winemakers in the beginning. Vicky has her roots in Germany, Guido comes from Tuscany. Both lived abroad for some time, where they pursued completely different professions, before taking over Le Fonti from Vicky's father. Today, Fattoria Le Fonti is one of the top wine estates in Tuscany.

The Le Fonti winery in Panzano in Chianti is located in the hills below the village church

A thank you from the island in chaos

First of all - and this is very important to Vicky - she would like to thank everyone who has contacted her and her husband in the last few days and weeks of the coronavirus crisis to check on their well-being: "We are all doing well! Thank God...", she says. "And we are happy and grateful that we can be here in Panzano - on our small, quiet island in the midst of chaos."

Even if you have to queue for an hour or an hour and a half before you even get to the store. Sandra's small grocery store, the Macelleria Checcucci and the Cecchini butcher's, Lorenzo's small cheese store and the greengrocer's are all open - and the local pizzeria has recently opened on two evenings, where you can pick up your pre-ordered pizza contactless - but life only takes place with massive restrictions. You are only allowed to move within your own municipal boundaries, and only with a valid reason. These trips for errands are also very strictly controlled and sanctioned. The commandment is: stay at home.

The fact is that the situation in Italy - and now all over the world - is and remains very critical. "This is a situation that concerns us all. We hope that the strict curfew that is still in place will help to prevent the number of cases from rising again," says Vicky. 

The vineyards of Le Fonti - a quiet island amidst the chaos of the times

Spring at the winery - lots of work in the cellar and vineyard

But life at the winery continues even during the crisis: "After a very warm February and March with only a few cold days in between," reports Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, "the first buds are bursting open in the vineyard. Nature is keeping us on our toes!"

And although all non-relevant branches of work have had to close at short notice in recent weeks to contain the further spread of the virus, work in the vineyard can continue. "There are a lot of rules that we have to follow," explains the winemaker, "especially when it comes to working indoors. But we are happy that our workers can continue to work in the vineyard with enough freedom. And the best thing about it: we haven't had to lay anyone off!" And that is a real ray of hope at a time when Italy is struggling with an economically precarious situation in addition to the human tragedy.

And so the important work in the cellar could also be completed: The Rosato 2019 and the Chianti Classico 2017 are in the bottle! Vicky is optimistic about the future: "We are currently preparing the first pallets for shipping, but the volume of trucks and cargo is still very low at the moment and it is not easy to organize shipments from Italy." However, it is assumed that the situation should at least ease in this respect after Easter and that it should be possible to ship the new wines.

Work in the vineyard can continue with sufficient free space

Buona Pasqua! Happy Easter - even in Corona times...

Especially at Easter time, it is of course all the more difficult to stick to the curfew and stay at home. After all, Easter is the most important celebration of the year in Italy - in fact, it is a celebration of family. And the Schmitt-Vitalis have plenty of them: the members of both families live scattered across the continents - from Vicky's father, who lives with his partner in Zurich, to her brother, who lives with his family in Hamburg, to her sister, who lives with her family just 20 kilometers away from Panzano, but out of reach at the moment due to the strict curfew.

Guido's parents also live nearby, in Radda in Chianti, but no visits are allowed here either. Guido's brother emigrated to Canada a few years ago. Only Guido's twin brother Enrico is at home in Panzano and currently helps out at Le Fonti from time to time. "But we're staying strong and staying at home - even at Easter," emphasizes Vicky.

But it wouldn't be the Schmitt-Vitalis if they hadn't also had an idea for this situation: on Easter Sunday, all parts of the family cook the same meal - the dish is still being discussed - and then eat, drink and celebrate Easter together in a video conference call. In my opinion, it's a wonderful way to keep things in common despite the distance. 

"#iorestoacasa" (I'm staying at home) - the motto in Italy

Vicky's virtual aperitivo

"Yes, it is very likely that we will all have to spend a few more weeks or maybe even months at home until our lives return to some kind of normality," the winemaker adds thoughtfully.

But positive and full of joie de vivre, as Vicky and Guido are, they have created a new "tradition": As a replacement for the otherwise mundane aperitivo in a bar or restaurant, they have now created a "virtual aperitivo", where they "meet" via video call, WhatsApp or Skype and telephone at an agreed time, drink a glass of wine or spumante together and have a small snack. "We talk about the day and whatever else is on our minds," says Vicky. It's good for the soul and the heart!"

And as a repeated participant in one of Vicky's virtual aperitifs, I can only confirm this: You're a bit closer again - despite the physical distance between you.

When I'm at Le Fonti to discuss things with Vicky, we love to sit on this wonderful terrace

I have already had to cancel two of my trips to Italy this year - and to my greatest regret, I am convinced that I will have to do without "my" Panzano for even longer. This makes it all the more important for me to stay in touch with my friends and winemakers, show my solidarity and - following Vicky and Guido's example - make the best of the situation. And I share the opinion that can be read on many Italian banners at the moment: Tutto andrá bene! Everything will be fine!

Back
Back

#SehnsuchtChiantiClassico: Between vines and cement egg with Piero Lanza at the Poggerino winery

Next
Next

#SehnsuchtChiantiClassico: A conversation with Alessia Riccieri from the Antico Podere Gagliole winery