#SehnsuchtChiantiClassico: A conversation with Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi from Rocca di Montegrossi

Rocca di Montegrossi

The coronavirus pandemic is still keeping the world on tenterhooks. In Italy in particular, the virus has left its tragic mark - both in human and economic terms. And the situation is only slowly easing. In the meantime, as part of my #SehnsuchtChiantiClassico blog series, I have tried to tell you how my friends at the NinainChianti.com wineries are doing. What everyday life is like in Corona times. This week I spoke to Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, owner of the Rocca di Montegrossi winery, who told me how he and his family are coping in these difficult times. But we also talked about why Marco is looking positively to the future despite the coronavirus shutdown.

Rocca di Montegrossi: a classic in Chianti Classico

The Rocca di Montegrossi wine estate is located near the village of Monti in Chianti and covers an area of around 100 hectares. 20 hectares are used for vineyards and a further 20 hectares are planted with olive trees - the rest is woodland. The Sangiovese grape variety - the flagship variety of Chianti Classico - grows here on a total of 13 hectares in the historic heart of Chianti Classico.

The soil, characterized by stone and limestone, gives the taste of Sangiovese a particularly original, traditional expression. However, other indigenous varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Pugnitello and Malvasia Bianco di Toscana also thrive here. The owner of the estate is Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, a descendant of the famous Tuscan Ricasoli family. This family is inextricably linked to the history of the region and Chianti Classico - after all, Bettino Ricasoli is considered the inventor of the Chianti "formula".

And even today, Marco still places great value on tradition and classic approaches, while at the same time - or precisely because of this - all his wines are certified organic.

A positive outlook for 2020

Rocca di Montegrossi is something of a solitaire in Chianti Classico and has been a fixture in my range for many, many years, which I am very happy about - a winery that cannot really be compared with other wineries.

And that's exactly how Marco is: simply incomparable! Marco always starts the new year with a special feature: a look back at the past year and a look ahead to the new one. And so it was in January 2020: full of pride and joy, Marco looked back on a great 2019 - a year full of positive events and with a good harvest - so with the best prospects for excellent wines. And Marco was full of confidence for himself and his winery in 2020 and planned and made further investments, including the purchase of new tractors and the installation of new solar panels.

At the "Chianti Classico Collection" wine fair in February, I was able to taste Marco's fantastic new vintages - and as always, the quality presented by Rocca di Montegrossi in all vintages was unbelievably consistent. 

And then came Corona...

... and changed everything. Also for Marco and his family with two small children: "Life as we were used to it was stopped from one day to the next. It was as if someone had pressed the stop button." The pallet with my delivery was also already packed - but now it had to stay there and wait to be transported.

Of course, as on many other wineries, life went on in a certain way, but under strict curfews and with numerous other restrictions. Nevertheless, thank goodness one of Marco's projects could be realized: A new vineyard with Sangiovese vines was planted.

However, Rocca di Montegrossi had another problem to contend with this spring: frost. "We suffered frost damage on around 20 percent of the vines - mainly on the Sangiovese plants," explains Marco. This is because Sangiovese always sprouts a little earlier than the other grape varieties, which was its undoing in this case.

What's more, according to the winegrower, it was more likely to affect vines that were trained using the so-called "Guyot pruning" method. This pruning technique encourages the plants to sprout even earlier. Marco explains further: "The frozen shoots will not be able to bear fruit this year or next year." But it remains to be seen whether time will be able to heal some of these wounds.

Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi from Rocca di Montegrossi in his maturing cellar

Great new wines - great prospects!

A reason for joy for me - and of course for all those who appreciate the wines of Rocca di Montegrossi - is that the new vintages are now on their way to Austria after a somewhat longer wait on the pallet and will hopefully reach me soon!

I also spoke to Marco again about his wines and I am - as I am every year - thrilled with the work that Marco and his staff have done at Rocca di Montegrossi: Because these vintages that are now coming onto the market here are just great! For example, the 2019 Rosato- perfect for spring - is characterized by "wonderful fruit aromas and a beautiful structure", says Marco, and - as usual with Rocca di Montegrossi - conjures up a slight saltiness on the tongue. Perfect as an aperitif when well chilled, but also a good accompaniment to light dishes - and, as always, unmistakably Rocca di Montegrossi.

The 2018 Chianti Classico is a real highlight. According to Marco, we can expect "a spectacular Sangiovese fruit aroma in what is probably one of the best Chianti Classico wines ever produced at Rocca di Montegrossi". According to Marco, the reason for this is that 2018 was a very balanced growing year in terms of climate. It was warm, but not too warm. It always rained at the right time, but not too much or too little. All in all: a showcase vintage to remember.

Rocca di Montegrossi

Of course, the delivery also includes Rocca di Montegrossi's flagship wine: the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Marcellino 2015, which Marco is also very pleased with. And even if the San Marcellino can normally withstand a few years of ageing and rest before it shows its best side, the 2015 San Marcellino is already very accessible and easy to drink as a youngster, without sacrificing tannins or structure. Marco doesn't really know why. He thinks that the quality of the grapes in 2015 was simply perfect. A little tip from the winemaker: "If you open a 2015 San Marcellino now, you should give it 20 minutes of air and rest in the glass. This allows the wine's potential to fully develop."

Also included in the delivery: the Geremia 2015 - the international Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Rocca di Montegrossi. And here too, Marco is delighted and raves about the freshness, the elegance of the dark berry aromas and the beautiful finish. The 2016 Geremia will also be included in the delivery, but we'll have to wait a little longer for Marco's description. But because all the previous vintages were so wonderful, I have already ordered it for you - and myself. 

So we can look forward - even in these difficult times. And hopefully we will soon be toasting to better times with a glass of Rocca di Montegrossi!